When is a Mille-feuille not…

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Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, so well-known that to simply say “Le Manoir” we all know it, love it, wish we could be there more often. Le Manoir’s creator, Raymond Blanc, now a national treasure, a prolific writer and master of the TV screen, known to those who have had the good fortune to work with him as RB. A Millefeuille, a classic French dessert, leaves of puff pastry, with pastry cream and fruit, most classically raspberries or strawberries; but not if you are RB or an alumnus.

A Millefeuille is not a dessert, it is a business ethos, a way of describing how to build an experience; the leaf of pastry on its’ own is nothing. For example, at Le Manoir, it is the crunch of the oversized gravel used to maximise the sound under tyre on arrival, the crisp uniforms, palatial floral arrangements, the army of helpers, all encountered long before you taste a sip of champagne or nibble on quail egg nestled on a wafer.  The millefeuille IS a thousand small thoughts, actions and deeds that bring together something greater than the sum of its own parts. Coincidentally, we currently have a savoury Millefeuille sandwiched with truffle brie on the menu –  and serve it with Markus Molitor, Auslese 3 star White Cap 2011, a truly awesome combination available on our wine list.

Why I am telling you this? The truth is Google relevance, but also, I love a good story. I joined Le Manoir in 1986 at the age of 20 – when this photo was taken I was 24 and assistant restaurant manager; another two years before I was to leave to open Pied à Terre.

My most sincere apologies for not recollecting everyone but here’s a few shout outs.  Front row, obviously RB but even more importantly to me, Monsieur Alain, the Restaurant director and my boss for 6 years and from whom I learned my trade, served my time.  Nicholas Dickenson https://www.conghamhallhotel.co.uk and Sue Williams, formally of https://www.whatleymanor.com/ – both titans of the hotel world. Pierre Baldelli, founder of Chez Pierre in Monte-Carlo https://chezpierremontecarlo.com/.  Aaron and Claire Patterson, now over 30 years in Hambleton Hall https://www.hambletonhall.com/. Alison Jambert, co-founder of Eat Creative, a Japanese creative agency and Nicholas her husband, COO Middle East & Asia Pacific Region of Fauchon Paris.

Then there is Giles on wine, Joel with the bad haircut, Jun our Japanese speaker, Julie Fretwell in management, Clive Fretwell head chef at the time and Gary who went on to be head chef for over a decade.  It would be fun to put more names to faces; oh and of course Colin in the gardening team.  Ping me on david@pied-a-terre.co.uk if you are in the photograph and I will build a list on the blog of who and where you are.

I mentioned in passing the sound and crunch of the gravel, but it is much more; it is the sound of arriving, passing through the gates of Le Manoir, the point is, it is a layer in the Millifeuille, in the sub-conscious experience, the sound under tyre or under foot.  It is something that has been thought about, tested and retested and then in 1988 we had “Gravel Gate’. The wrong size gravel had been delivered and Madame Blanc was furious;  it was too quiet, had no ommff, no presence or character…..now remember we are talking about gravel! But it is this enormous attention to detail that creates a restaurant or hotel of excellence.  It means the simple things probably have been over thought, but better over thought than not thought at all…

You’ll notice the gravel next time you visit Le Manoir.

Tip Top.

David Moore, Founder and Owner of Pied à Terre.